Get the PCB and the D1:
Solder the D1 component. Place the PCB on the bottom view and solder the diode paths with caution. Check the diode polarity:
Get the J1 component (optional):
Solder the J1 component (optional). From the bottom view, solder the connector. Use tape for secure and effective placement. Place the connetor fixing plate inwards:
Get the S1 component:
Solder the S1 component. Just solder the three pins using tape.
At this point, perform some excess trimming to avoid future problems:
Follow the battery connector section if you have soldered the battery connector.
At this point you need to bend the PCB headers in a right angle. Split the headers and remove the retainer:
Then do a 90 degree bend:
Then perform a 30 degree angle and another -30 degree angle:
TODO: add image
IMPORTANT: If you want to avoid rising the switch from the keyboard base, you should not perform only 90 degree angles, try to use the minimum slope in 2nd and 3th bends. Avoid the following shape:
That will be the ending shape. You will need two of the previous bended headers to be soldered into J2 and J3. First solder J2:
Then solder J3. It will be better to solder it with the tob view at the top:
Trim again the excess material:
At this point you can solder it to the Pro Micro or compatible board:
IMPORTANT: Try to avoid to move the headers when are soldered because you can break a header, as it happened to me:
Remove again the excess and start mounting altogheder!
- Connect the battery connector
- Connect the Pro Micro compatible CPU to the keyboard
- Connect the OLED displayy, if you have it.
Done!