Ask me anything related to 3d printing.

[bassamanator]

* This is not a place to ask about issues that you've run into Klipperizing your printer; such posts will be deleted without warning. You're free to create a separate discussion about such issues.

* Please try to keep questions/responses in their own threads.

Please ⭐ star this repository on the main page.

---

Be sure to check through these links beforehand:

• FAQs
• Initial Steps ⚡
• How-to 🛠️

Other links:

• Everything Sovol SV06

---

I get a lot of private direct messages that remain private, therefore, no one else benefits from them. I'm hoping to rectify that with this ongoing discussion.

[NikDijkema]

I'll kick it off with a question about acceptable extrusion multiplier ranges.

My question is the following:
Is < 85% extrusion multiplier acceptable/reasonable for -- what I assume to be fairly standard -- PLA?
Or does this indicate that something else may be wrong, which is causing overextrusion?

Here's the context:

I'm using Sovol's own brand PLA (new spool, not the stuff included with the printer). I dried the filament to be sure.

I was having some overextrusion issues (nozzle running through/into protruding excess filament), so I followed Ellis' tuning guide:

• I'm running Marlin for now, will probably klipperize in the future).
• My E-steps calibration is spot on (ruler+tape method).
• First layer squish is calibrated by babystepping to the first point at which there were no gaps letting any light through between the solid infill lines.
• Not much noteworthy about the PA calibration, this seemed to go smoothly, minor defects started appearing at 0.04.

Next, I calibrated the extrusion multiplier. I had to drop this down to ~82% to avoid the nozzle running through the top layer and causing ridges (there are still slight ridges where the infill overlaps the perimeter).

Any advice would be much appreciated!

[bassamanator]

@NikDijkema An extrusion multiplier of less than 85% is a bit unusual, but if the prints are coming out dimensionally correct, then I see no cause for concern.

You mentioned babystepping: have you saved the babystepped z_offset? Are you having to adjust z_offset during prints?

Are you using reliable print settings? I would suggest you use Ellis' print settings which you can find on this repo to eliminate poor print settings as an issue. You'll have to adjust them to work with Marlin, and slow them down a bit.

Post pictures of top layers and bottom layers if possible.

[ZdenekSC]

[ZdenekSC]

I've found an issue as to why the probe was probing out of the bed with having the 1:1 settings with the SV06+ repo.

I had a screw in my 5015 fan mode blocking the tool head to go to the very left side, this offset the whole probed area. I'm now using the same settings as in SV06+ branch.

• I've created a new bed mesh (looks good):
  

• I've printed your test print:
  

As you can see, the left side is too close (Almost fine) while the right side is too far. I see the mesh is applied as the Z motors turn a bit but it seems to fail to compensate anyway. What can I do to fix this? This is really beyond me.

[ZdenekSC]

Some updates from my side. I realized that I may be suffering from the X-axis twist you mentioned in other discussions.

So what I did was:

• Went through this procedure https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/docs/Axis_Twist_Compensation.md

• Redo z-offset , bed screws
  

• Recreated new bed mesh
  

• I printed the new test print, as you can see, It is much much better.
  

I feel like this is the way, but it is still not 100% correct. The right bottom corner is already making ridges while I see some spots where I still would need to go a bit lower. Do you know how would I make it perfect?

[bassamanator]

Let the printer settle a bit, spend some time printing...

[ZdenekSC]

This was actually great advice. I spend some. time printing. I also ran the X Axis twist with 6 sample points instead of 3 and now. my first layer is really great across whole build plate. I also went trough the tuning the Input shaper with Adxl and setting up pressure advance following the pattern guide. I'm now really satisfied with the state of. my. printer and I print fast and reliably again. All my last prints came up flawlessly. Thank you for the support here and also in PMs

[bassamanator]

Pleasure! Please star the repo if you haven't already.

[dasb00ter]

I've taken your advice to heart. I have a sv06 plus and it's my first printer. I've basically learned as much as I could before doing anything but it's a hands on learning experience. I have basically had the extruder apart and the linear rods to grease and check tightness. I seem to have a new design for my extruder which has 2 grub screws(which I think was there originally proposed design). I will include a picture for interest sake. There also seems to be a different design for the top of the z screws(hope I'm using correct part name).

Anyways my question is about the the hot end.The nozzle heatbrake and heatblock. Can you eli5 the procedure for getting proper spacing from the heat block from the nozzle for Sv06 plus, including heat recommendations. I don't see allot of videos or explanations. I did learn about heat creep though. I see allot of people with problems with extruder and melted blobs of filament. I'm really trying to follow advice I'm just really new. I will eventually follow your instructions for kipper and a btt pad 7. Thanks so much

[bassamanator]

That's awesome! I'm only an uncle but I know how much work it is, it helps if there's family nearby. Merry Christmas!

I've seen the y-belt stop, but have never tried it. There is pretty much zero chance of damage due to correct sensorless homing usage. The designer of the part mentions bearings being damaged over time, but bearings in this printer are cheap to replace, I bought some backups a year ago for ~$5 for 11 bearings. Also keep in mind that the printhead is also doing some smashing, a far more expensive part. Sensorless homing is used in Vorons btw, so this has little to do with money, it's more about simplifying the design/hardware, which does indirectly reduce cost.

Having said all that, I do think there's some value in the part. Give it a shot!

[dasb00ter]

Thanks for the explanation on sensorIess homing. The belt clip addition definitely seems less violent. The pad does seem to kind of jump a bit when it hits the bearing housing without it. I think I've had 95% of the printer apart now and it's been educational.
I thought I would print some heat bridges with the sovol filament. I've printed from 240 down to 180. They all look stringy and not even close to complete. I confirmed the temp change and watched the prints. I would like to get an opinion. I could post photos here or to another place if you suggest. My limited knowledge wonders if stock fan is the problem or perhaps heat creep. Thought I left some space between heat block and nozzle with the nozzle tight against the heat brake. Not looking forward to taking it apart again but mistakes happen. I sliced it in cura hopefully properly and modified the gcode to change temp every 5 mm. Looking for advice going forward.

EDIT: So I went back in there and what the heck tool do you use to screw/unscrew the heat brake without ruining it? It appears to be brass and it has heat conductive paste on it I assume to help conduct the heat out. maybe Im ok but I was going to advance the break to move the nozzle out a bit and put a little ridge into the brake then gave up

[bassamanator]

To diagnose issues, you should only use print settings that are known to be good, find them on this repo. I know from experience that switching from Cura to PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer is difficult, but it's well worth it: you save so much time.

Your nozzle gap looks. The heatbreak I've already told you about, but I'll add that it's easier than you think; won't be too drastic of an issue if done hot. Definitely has spares when you attempt this.

BTW please star the repo if you haven't already.

[dasb00ter]

I think you intended to finish the first sentence? My nozzle gap looks ______. I understand the principals of the heat break nozzle and heat creep. I must of missed the information on exactly what tool to use so you don't damage it. Pliers? I'm going to assume it should be done while the heat block is hot. I've done slight damage to it already with pliers and cloth and it didn't budge. I found a video https://youtu.be/1_GH0VTaXJ8?si=z78d9Jpti_F2V_Bh but it is for sv06 not plus which is different block. Sovol official videos don't seem to cover

[bassamanator]

Your nozzle gap looks fine. You absolutely have to hold things with pliers/adjustable wrench because removal is done hot; the hotend should just rotate away from the heatbreak. If you found that video useful, then you have your answer, the same principle applies to both hotends.

It's a pity no Plus owners have tried to find an aftermarket replacement for the hotend. On the SV06, the heatbreak+heatblock can be replaced for about $5.

Happy New Year everyone!

[ZdenekSC]

Hi, I've got one question. Would you be able to create similar configs for OrcaSlicer for SV06Plus as well? I believe that the settings are more or less similar to PS. It would be welcomed as I've always had great results with your SS configs, but the OrcaSlicer is looking great in terms of UX. Thank you.

[bassamanator]

I'm not an OS user, so no, I have no plans on doing this. If you look on printables, however, you will find OS profiles for the plus.

[ZdenekSC]

Okay I see, but the OS profiles on printables are by no means this. I will try myself to copy as much as I can over To OS.

[Heiko910]

Hey Bassam,
I know you have a config for the SKR mini board. I remember that you stated you had never tried it.
I just ordered one because my stock board went up in smoke last night. The printer was sitting idle (not printing) and suddenly smoke started coming out and I could even see some flames through the opening in the plastic case.
I am pretty shocked that my four month old printer is already burning up.
The burned section is between one of the stepper drivers and a surface mount capacitor.
Do you have any hands on experience with the SKR mini?
Is it going to be more durable?
Sovol doesn't respond to any of my messages that I have sent them through their webpage's contact form.
Couple of weeks ago the heated bed wire broke and I had to replace one of the thermistor wires.
Not happy but I guess that is life with 3d rpinter.
Cheers,
Heiko

[Heiko910]

thanks for the encouraging words. i will send them an email.
Cheers,
Heiko

[Heiko910]

Hey Bassamanator,
One quick follow up.
I got my SKR mini and I am wondering if the two z axis stepper motor wires need to be separated or if I can just keep them together and just use one connector on the skr mini E3 v3. It is not mentioned in your wiring instructions.

Thanks

[Heiko910]

Another question just jumped at me.
In your SV06 Klipper config (the one with the stock motherboard) the XYZand E steppers have 128 microsteps.
In the config for the SKR mini the microsteps are set to 64.
What is the reason for that?
Thanks,
Heiko

[bassamanator]

Just follow the docs, so if they don't mention splitting, then don't.

The skr can't generate such high microsteps as the MCU isn't as powerful.

[Heiko910]

Thanks

[dasb00ter]

I damaged by main extruder board doing a 5015 fan mod using the recommended screw length listed for the mod. Its of course my fault but I am now looking to replace the part. I have sent and email to solvo. There is a sv06 extruder board on solvos website but Idk if they are the same considering they are different extruders.

2. The printer still prints it seems normally, but I will replace this board if I can as soon as I can. In the meantime I am having trouble tuning the printer for overhangs. Since benchy and lighthouse that came with it looks ok I thought it might be the way I sliced the accompanying object in the photo. I would like to try your SS config bundle does it work with sv06 plus as its labeled sv06-sv07? The object was printed on its side with the problem area at the top of the print
   
   
   

[bassamanator]

All the new sovol printers share the same extruder as their base so the pcb should work. The config bundles support all the new printers.

[ZdenekSC]

Hi, It is me again. I recently changed nozzle to 0.6, it was a bit shorter but because of the FAN mod i did it was not an issue. But since then I cannot get the First layer down properly.

I do Bed Screw Adjust until they are all just fine, then set Z Offser, Then DO CREATE MESH. But even after doing this, The printer still fails to compensate. It is always just fine on Left side while too close on right side. I tried already so many times that I don't know what do do next. I tried X AXIS TWIST COMPENSATION without a success.

I think my only hope is to change mesh manually, but I'm not sure how should I proceed with such a technique."

I'm using SS with your profiles.

Do you have any idea or hint how to go from here? Thank you

[bassamanator]

I don't know the nitty gritty about twist compensation unfortunately, the documentation is sparse on the topic on klipper docs (maybe marlin docs have more to say on the topic?).

One thing that you can trust is the data generated by screws_tilt_calculate, therefore your bed is quite level, so don't try to level it.

I won't try to explain manually editing the mesh, and I recommend you not go down that path, but that is an option.

Try axis twist compensation again but try to be more careful; make sure the nozzle is clean. Ideally you want to use a feeler gauge.

[bassamanator]

@ZdenekSC and @bassamanator do u thing a 4 bearing carriage would help with x-twist?

Nope. Check the relevant discussion on this repo for a visualization of the problem, also on the everything-sv06 repo.

Incidentally, someone recently started selling a carbon fibre carriage which has 4 points of contact for the SV06, look for it on the sovol facebook group.

[dasb00ter]

Sure I think that is where I sort of got the idea. It looked like the nozzle was tilting as the x twisted moving it partly in to the y axis. I thought maybe two bearings on 2 rails would be more stable and less twisty. I will go back and review and thanks for info. I am sure your right.

Do you know what size of grub screw is used in the extruder to fix the gears in place. I ran into my first Sovol quality control issue and my extra ordered one came with one of the two missing. There was some weird damage to the aluminum block too like the end of a screw had dug into it. I have a dispute in with Aliexpress but in case that doesnt pull through it seems like a very small item to hold me back

[ZdenekSC]

@bassamanator I was trying for so long and there is no amount of tweaking that would make it work. It is always so far on right side, Z Axis Twist compensation have no effect, If I print it with or without it in the config the result is the same.

[bassamanator]

Let's see some pictures @ZdenekSC

[dasb00ter]

video000000.mp4

[bassamanator]

Away from my machine, but it's an M3x2mm or 2.5mm grub screw (measure the other one to get the length).

[bassamanator]

~~Can't seem to find the origins of this message on github, but here's my response~~. @eblohm Some have looked, but we have not found an aftermarket replacement. You should email info@sovol3d.com to get a replacement.

…

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 9:57 PM Eric Blohm ***@***.***> wrote: Hello! Not directly related to the SV06 firmware/settings, but do you have any recommendations for a replacement build plate? My SV06+ came with the gold magnet and black adhesive top but the adhesive is *terrible* and is constantly popping up from the gold plate while printing which is throwing prints off. I'm hoping to replace it with something that's just one piece — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#95 (comment)>, or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AOY5H45M4I2AKWFI5IREOZTYPMXCFAVCNFSM6AAAAAA5GOSR6GVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43SRDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHM4DCOBXGUZDA> . You are receiving this because you authored the thread.Message ID: <bassamanator/Sovol-SV06-firmware/repo-discussions/95/comments/8187520@ github.com>

[dasb00ter]

@ZdenekSC. What was the procedure you used to square your gantry if you don't mind me asking. I eyeballed it with a square awhile ago and it looked pretty good. It looks like even if u remove the controller board box and power supply it's difficult to find a place to lay against the chassis and Gantry with a square. Did u have to do anything like add those printable shims I've seen around. Thanks

[dasb00ter]

@bassamanator
Are these useful https://www.printables.com/model/360276-sovol-sv06-z-motor-alignment-block-shim looking at them it appears to be trying to force the motor into alignment within the z gantry itself, not square the z gantry to the frame?

Your opinion on oldham couplers on SV06 plus z screw. I think i have some pictures of the bearing at the top of the z gantry for mine. Seems like there are different iterations of the z screw for the sv06 plus

[bassamanator]

Even when I was suffering from X axis twist, I purposely didn't try this part, too much guess work involved. I don't think this is a serious solution, but could it solve the issue? Absolutely!

Oldham couplers, or any solution to address z wobble (which every printer experiences), are good things, I recommend them if you have some cash burning a hole in your pocket. Are they necessary? Not in most cases.

[dasb00ter]

Ok I'll probably steer clear of the first mod.

The Oldham couplers seems like a fairly cheap mod or am I missing something? Are these no sufficient

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-Oldham-couplers.html?osf=direct&spm=a2g0n.home.header.0

Specifically looking at these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004753563591.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.48c759afbIqIwQ&browser_id=26ee9f719ea34a3e964adbbb3885f070&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=iwhilsgcatjimjjb18d6c945da41d793d4341a08ac&gclid=&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%218.39%216.97%21%21%216.13%215.09%21%402103146f17069236897743193eb76d%2112000030344297234%21sea%21CA%211688214523%21&algo_pvid=e7a501f0-9ac3-496f-a138-978d60d9985b

[bassamanator]

Looks like a fit. I'm using these, but I think there's some value in these because the brass nut is built in.

[dasb00ter]

Looked at the incorporated t-nut one and tried to envisage the install...and failed not having installed one before. The other ones I can see myself installing the oldham and then spinning the t-nut down on top of everything and attaching. I found a picture of someone with similar installed and attached. Looks like he used a couple of pan heads to attach to the chassis and then used the originals to attach the tnut.

This brings me to an important question and problem I have living in Canada on the prairies. Sourcing metric nuts bolts and washers. I drove 30 minutes to get an m3 25 mm bolt. When I got there(some place that deals with not the public I think) the guy asked me how many and I said 3 and he just gave them to me and looked at me sympathetically, lol. Can you please point to a good kit on aliexpress that would be a good start to have for these printers or some other hobby that uses these metric bolts and nuts.? ? There only appears to be one 3d printer shop in town and they don't list these small things.

[bassamanator]

@dasb00ter I would say that many users might be able to finagle an appropriate squaring even with the slots.

1. I would suggest removing the top beam, but maybe remove the beam if proper squaring cannot be achieved with the beam off.
2. Loosen both z extrusions.
3. Square up one side, then tighten with the square in play.
4. Repeat step 3 for the alternate side.
5. Recheck both sides after the gantry is fully assembled (the top beam is attached).

Also, take note that an informed user had a top beam that was warped along 3 axes, so maybe check that as well while you're at it.

[dasb00ter]

I replaced all the bearings(11) so I had the top of the gantry off anyways. Mine seems pretty square. Removing the power supply is a bit of a pain to use a full size square. Is there a quick release mod maybe something like that controller box has or is that a bad idea in terms of grounding. I feel like I want to go back and check with the square with everything set up and the printer on its own table. I will go back and check the top bar as I missed that. How to detect a three axis warping on the top bar? Yikes!

Edit: I've very much noticed allot of drag on the x axis carriage when I tighten the bolts for the cover for the 3 bearings in the carriage(there are 6 bolts). They have to be very loose to get smooth action from the carriage but this part also supports the extruder in its proper orientation. I'm not sure what to do in this case?

I found that on the y axis that maybe one of my rods is bent. I have the iko bearings aligned with the tails going the same way. If I exchange the bars one travels nicely on both sides and will glide right through, one makes a grinding noise and is draggy. One rod spins easy and the other not so much.I spent allot of time fiddling with the screw tighteness on the bearing holder to try and make it better.
Will this effect my prints? What would be the symptoms, and what would be my options?

I had some time at work and I've been researching Vorons. I was looking at kits? specifically at the Siboor kit. Im in Canada and this kit seemed to have reasonable parts at a reasonable price. I looked at magic phoenix also. AliExpress is such a mess(I think on purpose) and the Siboor store seems to have the same thing over and over but I think the BOM is different. I know purists like to get it all separate but the cost of shipping alone omg. Did u ever look at the kits? Can u share some knowledge. I'm really far from pulling the trigger on this but I'm looking

[bassamanator]

Someone remixed my frame mounting solutions on printables for the psu, I think it might be what you're looking for.

For the x axis drag, make sure there are no cracks in the plastic housing and that it's not warped. This is a weird issue. I hope you're not overtightening.

I found that on the y axis that maybe one of my rods is bent.

Keep in mind that you have metal rubbing on metal here, so sooner or later you will see marks on your rods, and rods do wear out. Is that rod that is bent creating the drag? Keep in mind, it's hard to eyeball these things. I know of at least 1 user who had bent rods and had sovol send them replacements. Have any moving part, such as the x carriage or the bed, that doesn't move smoothly is problematic, will wear out related parts faster, and will affect max velocities. Simply move the printhead and the bed back and forth by hand quickly, and if they move smoothly and freely, you should be fine.

Kits are the way to go imo. I bought mine from https://www.3dlabtech.ca/, it was for the ldo voron 0.1. Great kit, but very expensive, I would probably buy a siboor now, but I'm more fearless than I once was. As long as you are a problem solver, any kit will do, and having a working printer already makes the process more or less a breeze. Find out what kits are good by joining the Voron discord, but I warn you, those people on there are fanboys, they worship anything Voron and do not think critically, so spend a lot of time asking about kits at different times of the day over the course of weeks if not months. Be sure to have a well-equipped workshop before you decide to build any printer, I have a repo for that...

[dasb00ter]

Thank you I eventually tracked down your frame mounting extrusion solution and remix for a meanwell power supply. I will see if I can work something out from that.

I think the bigger fish to fry here is the x axis carriage. As far as I can tell its important to have all parts of the printer working well but special attention is often paid to the x-axis. So I am only tightening the screws by spinning the long axis of the allen key( I would say pretty loose and not compatible with your klipper speed test lol!) I have made a video but its hard to convey the difference in drag with the 4 outside screws in place. It drags and sticks quite badly. I can see along the edge of the carriage at the top and bottom where the parts come together that the middle is bowed out when those screws are in place. I hypothesize that the slot with 2 bearings is having those bearings taken out of alignment I can feel this when I try to feed a bar and I think you can see it in the video. I will try to draw a picture too.
The question is what can I do about it?

1)try and print a part
2)sand the part I have (but where?)
3)hit up solvo for a new carriage? Do you think the video is convincing?
4)Convert to some crazy hiwin solution?
5) I am doing some stupid amateur thing and you will have a golden answer?

What I Have done is used Tuc Tape(insulation plastic tape) stretched quite tightly and wound around the middle of the carriage to secure it and bring in the bowed out middle. This is a terrible solution for obvious reasons.

https://youtu.be/LwEE-il1Yz0
https://youtu.be/LbgJ7xhLdWQ

[bassamanator]

The video is very convincing, skip the 'hacks' and contact sovol for replacement parts. Quality control is always an issue at this price point, unfortunately.

[dasb00ter]

Thanks for the feed back. I also thought it was cool as hell. I'll probably spend some time in the metaphysical 3d printing kiddy pool learning how to swim first lol.

…

On Tue, 13 Feb 2024, 1:33 pm Bassam, ***@***.***> wrote: I think *automated* multi-colour printing is cool as hell, but I'm not involved in this project, nor have I tried any other similar systems. There is a project that pre-dates the SV06 line of printers, but was adapted to work with this line as well. Can't seem to find it right now, but I know there was a parts page for it on printables. — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#95 (reply in thread)>, or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/AI2CMVCRH6TSN4O6RCGJFXLYTO52BAVCNFSM6AAAAAA5GOSR6GVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43SRDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHM4DINJXHE4DC> . You are receiving this because you commented.Message ID: <bassamanator/Sovol-SV06-firmware/repo-discussions/95/comments/8457981@ github.com>

[dasb00ter]

Well it has been since December I have been trying to get my printer into "Klipper" shape. After contacting Solvo they apparently are sending me a new x carriage and new x and y rails and some bearings. I am hoping to put everything together one more time.
While I wait for the parts I have looked at a lot of part cooling fans. I have tried Savagelaus part cooling fan, this NAV one https://www.printables.com/model/499235-sovol-sv06-plus-5015-fan-duct-nav-modular-duct-upd and I am about to print out the Vortex 2 https://www.printables.com/model/452216-sv06-plus-vortex-v2-adjustable-cooling-led-system

1) What do you use for your part cooling fan on sv06/ + ?
2)do you think the carpet tape is a solution for the vortex 2 mount?
3)Should I replace the IKO bearings with more bearings for the new rails?

The last things will probably put me on a printing hiatus waiting for parts from Ali but if this is the way then I will do it.

[blazing1991]

I used Vortex for half a year and always suffered from lack of cooling! When I switched to it I couldnt feel any improvements compared to stock cooling but I still used it as couldn't find other option.
About 1-2 month ago I switched to Nautilus (https://www.printables.com/model/733639-the-nautilus-sovol-sv06-plus) which works hundred times better, absolutely love it!

[bassamanator]

@dasb00ter

1. What do you use for your part cooling fan on sv06/ + ?
   2)do you think the carpet tape is a solution for the vortex 2 mount?
   3)Should I replace the IKO bearings with more bearings for the new rails?

1. See the parts section on the everything sv06 repo. Whatever you use, make sure it's CFD optimized.
2. Maybe?
3. That would be a nice little upgrade if you have the money. Is it worth it if your bearings are issue free? Probably not.

[dasb00ter]

@dasb00ter

1. What do you use for your part cooling fan on sv06/ + ?
   2)do you think the carpet tape is a solution for the vortex 2 mount?
   3)Should I replace the IKO bearings with more bearings for the new rails?

1. See the parts section on the everything sv06 repo. Whatever you use, make sure it's CFD optimized.

2. Maybe?

3. That would be a nice little upgrade if you have the money. Is it worth it if your bearings are issue free? Probably not.

fans and extruder on your everything sv06 github page seem to be a placeholder for information you were going to add. Or I have not navigated it correctly. Can you be more specific. I think those bearings maybe cost for 4 of them 12$ or so

[bassamanator]

I need to rename the outline a bit, this is what I meant.

For the bearings: if your current bearings (roughly CAD$7 for 12 pieces, yes they're that cheap) are rolling issue free, what are you hoping to get with IKO bearings that are $4/piece (this is an aliexpress price, can't even say if they're legit)?

[dasb00ter]

Thanks for the redirection, I valued the information.

In terms of the bearings I meant in the context of the above post(videos) where I was talking about the x carriage. So Solvo has apparently sent me new x axis linear rods and y axis linear rods and new x carriage. I guess I was asking if the bearings should just be replaced on spec too. Was wondering ,I guess, how long would it take for the bearings to become damaged in the situation above.
I decided to not order more bearings(just mentioning again I already replaced all eleven bearings with ikos previously) and will simply install all the parts that solvo is sending and hope for the best. This printer has not been an easy one for a new printing enthusiast. I guess I have learned a few things though.

I was looking at the z axis motor mounts and on one side they are more than 90 degrees and on the other side less than 90 degrees. I see people shimming the motors to square them up to the gantry but I am not sure what I can do for the one motor that is pointed in towards the gantry. So frustrating I am trying to make the hardware work but it just seems like the quality isnt there.

Printing with the printer I can see the nozzle dragging through the first layer in some parts and on other parts its too high leaving space between the lines of plastic. I have also done the silicone spacer bed mod too which hasn't really improved my situation.

I really feel I am struggling with this printer. I will just try to make the hardware as tight and true as I can then finally put klipper on it and hope that the mesh and x twist can hopefully compensate for the hardware.

@blazing1991 did you happen to see this remix also https://www.printables.com/model/685826-high-flow-ducts-for-sv06-single-and-double-5015-pa, Thoughts?

[bassamanator]

From what I remember about the video, it was clearly the rod that was 'defective'. I'm not against quality bearings mind you, it's just that if I were to replace mine (and of course I would have to replace all of them), it would set me back $4 x 10 = $40, and I wouldn't see a difference in print quality.

how long would it take for the bearings to become damaged in the situation above.

In that situation, I see the rods incurring damage, not the other way around. Keep in mind however that eventually, all rods develop 'scars' from the metal rolling on metal action, it takes a while though.

I really feel I am struggling with this printer. I will just try to make the hardware as tight and true as I can then finally put klipper on it and hope that the mesh and x twist can hopefully compensate for the hardware.

It is a budget printer, but some of your very crucial parts are defective. In 3d printing, everything affects everything else. You'll have an easier time when you replace the defective parts. Based on what you've said, you might have axis twist, but it's too soon to tell right now.

Be sure to run through the bible (https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/) after you've replaced parts on your machine.

I really feel I am struggling with this printer. I will just try to make the hardware as tight and true as I can then finally put klipper on it and hope that the mesh and x twist can hopefully compensate for the hardware.

The knowledge you gain from struggling with a non-performant printer (or anything else in life) is priceless. Also, I think your mindset is completely incorrect here: Klipper is not a prize to award your printer, Klipper makes working with, and improving, your printer easier.

[dasb00ter]

You were right of course it just became that way after the challenging hardware. I have klipperized after replacing what they sent me. Just working on that now. Thanks. @blazing1991 yes that design seems to work well I will stick with that one for now

[JNSMDT]

Hey Bassam,

is the Skr-Mini-E3-V3.0 firmware also compatible with the SV06 Plus? My Plus is already running klipper but it looks like i killed the stepper-y driver. I always have overtemp warnings even if the printer is only in standby. The heatsink of the driver is also untouchable hot and i think i need to replace the mainboard. Now i consider "upgrading" to the skr mini. But since you are have much more knowledge about klipper and the sv06/plus i have some questions.

• Is the skr mini a upgrade over the standard mainboard?
• do i need to change my whole printer config or is it as easy as changing the pins?
• do you have any ideas why my driver gets that hot? I didn't change anything on my config before i got the error.

[bassamanator]

Is the skr mini a upgrade over the standard mainboard?

It is a suitable replacement board. I don't consider it an upgrade because the MCU on the stock board is a bit more powerful. I would buy the cheaper board myself (whichever one that might be), because the MCU speed has no impact on print quality. If you're chasing speed, however...

do i need to change my whole printer config or is it as easy as changing the pins?

There is absolutely no benefit to sticking with your old config and altering it, I recommend you start fresh.

do you have any ideas why my driver gets that hot? I didn't change anything on my config before i got the error.

I imagine there is/was a short circuit in that area of the motherboard. The values used in my config are inline with the Marlin source code.

You do have the option of the Mellow fly 3d pro v3. It is a superior board, but the upgrade path is more complicated.

[19csa55]

Layer fan not working on Sovol Sv06 Plus.

You'll answer anything?! Why, how convenient :)

I recently got a Sovol SV06 Plus and from what I understand, there are two fans on the extruder called the layer fan (the fan on the left) and the part-cooling fan (the fan at the bottom).

I had a lot of successful prints until one day when my layer fan just stopped working, causing many heat creep issues despite using different filaments and levelling wizardry. I've never had a proper print since then, as the extruder always clogs 10 minutes in.

I've tried Pronterface to see if I could manually get it running but I could only manage to get the part-cooling fan running by using the command "M106 S255". "M106 P0 S255" does the same thing so it seems that P0 is assigned to the part-cooling fan.

I can see a trace for the layer fan on the extruder's circuit board but I don't see where it leads to. I've opened up the control panel to get a look at the motherboard and I only see one fan connector.

It seems that I'm not the only person who's run into this problem, can you please give some advice?

[19csa55]

I'm really sorry, I should have been more specific.

I have already tried a replacement fan, one that I took from a spare extruder. Unless, there is a problem with both fans, I don't even know where to begin to troubleshoot the problem.

I've also changed the circuit board of the extruder itself and still nothing.

Also, I have tried the M710 command, it's not a recognized command is what Pronterface says. I also have the intial hot-end fan speed setup to be at max in the Cura Slicer.

Any advice on testing the circuitry itself, or a command to try to get the hot-end fan running?

[bassamanator]

Well the only fan that can actually be controlled is the part cooling fan. The other 2 fans (hotend and controller box) are 'linked together' and turn on when the stepper drivers are in use/get hot.

I wonder if something is up with the normal fan port on your board?

[19csa55]

Umm, when I set the speed of the fans from the menu, the bottom fan (part-cooling fan?) and the controller box fan spin, only the left fan (hot-end fan?) stays asleep.

I have checked the fans by simply interchanging positions, they work well.

After having a closer look, I found a small hole (more like a tangled bit of the mesh) in the extruder cable, and there's another gentleman here that seems to have had a bigger version of my problem:

(https://www.reddit.com/r/Sovol/comments/11o991h/sv06_replacement_print_head_ribbon_cable/)

And here's my situation:

I fear the worst, but I'm soo not looking forward to cutting up the mesh to examine it :/

[bassamanator]

If a known to be working fan stops working when connected to the hotend pcb hotend fan, it's likely a wiring issue, and yeah, I guess your ribbon is the issue here. Fortunately sovol sells this.

[19csa55]

Hello again after 3 months,

Yes, it was an issue with the ribbon and also the fact that I screwed on the left fan (hot-end fan) upside down. Took a while to get it back up. Thanks for your replies!

[dasb00ter]

When invoking the x axis compensation module what are the numbers?

[axis_twist_compensation]
calibrate_start_x: 27
calibrate_end_x: 195
calibrate_y: 115

I found these in a GitHub set up guide? Are these points on the x axis. I'm using Sv06 plus how can I learn to define these values?

[dasb00ter]

Ugh sorry I should have seen that. Any tips going forward in regards to doing this?

[bassamanator]

See this discussion, but maybe klipper docs are more up to date? All that matters is to have a clean nozzle and be extra careful during the paper tests, which will be performed multiple times.

[dasb00ter]

looking to do a test print of the first layer of the entire bed. Can I just comment out the purge line in the KAMP config...or do i have to do some other thing to with the files from the repo to disable that?

[bassamanator]

See adjust your slicer section for purge line info.

[bassamanator]

@dasb00ter You're comment disappeared while I was responding, but here is my response.

---

No worries. I don't have any kids, but I'm an uncle to many, so I have an idea of what handfuls children can be.

The slicer bundles on this repo require no modifications to the start/end gcodes.

Line Purge

If you would like to print a purge line before your print starts, at the end of your start gcode, on a new line, add one of the following:

• PURGE_LINE (prints a standard purge line)
• LINE_PURGE (prints KAMP's purge line). Note that this is not the VORON_PURGE.

PrusaSlicer

Example start gcode with standard purge line

M104 S0 ; Stops PS/SS from sending temp waits separately
M140 S0
M117
PRINT_START BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] HOTEND=[first_layer_temperature[initial_extruder]]
PURGE_LINE

Example start gcode with standard KAMP purge line

M104 S0 ; Stops PS/SS from sending temp waits separately
M140 S0
M117
PRINT_START BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] HOTEND=[first_layer_temperature[initial_extruder]]
LINE_PURGE

You absolutely have to read the KAMP section, however.

[dasb00ter]

Just had to comment out the line. Difficult to print clean without the purge though.

Well I often see pictures of people having spectacular results with one fix or another. I've never had such a epiphany type fix. Still over the past year things seemed to be better.

My first layer has some problems. Mostly in the back. It looks under extruded but in the front it's fine. I'm not sure what to make of that.

[bassamanator]

A few milimeters don't matter. Simply print over the entire but leave 2mm on all sides for a single skirt line...

Print settings play a role in the first layer as well.

[Surimisalade]

Hi there,

I recently upgraded to klipper with great succes, thanks to your detailed guide and video.
Now i printed some calibration cubes and noticed the z height is way off. Like 20.5mm for a 20mm cube.
X and Y are reasonable with 20.10 and 20.15, those i can finetune with belt tension i guess.

But how can i adjust the z height? Before with stock firmware it was good. Read at a few places to not mess with XYZ steps, so prefer not to..
Thanks in advance.

[Surimisalade]

The screws are within 0.05 turns or so and the bed mesh provides me a total difference of 0.483. but that is the least of my problem, if i do a first layer test it is pretty good so...

At the moment i am reprinting the cube with the new profile and with/ without ironing. Will update when prints are done.
I can also play with the flow modifier.

[dasb00ter]

Nothing to do with z_offset.

I've attached the latest PS config bundle to be used with PS 2.8.1, rename to .ini then import PrusaSlicer_config_bundle.txt. Note that these are updated compared to what you find on this repo (will be uploaded here as well shortly), but you can use either.

How bad is the mesh and how is it bad?

I saw this and decided I would give PS another try with your bundle. I duplicating a print I just did in OS. I noticed it didnt use adaptive purge? What did I miss? I see some custom Gcode imported? Do I have to do make any changes

[bassamanator]

Just import the bundle.

[dasb00ter]

Just import the bundle.

Well I mean I did import the bundle from your post just a few posts back. Definitely got a non adaptive purge line. I'll check to make sure I've got the purge line in the Kamp settings uncommented but I'm sure I did as I already printed with another slicer and adaptive purge worked. Are you still not going back to super slicer?

The results were mixed. The Ellis decorative settings were much faster 7 hrs versus Vs 16 hrs for the same print.
Can you have layer shift on just one side of a print? I'm trying to wrap my head around it. The extra speed/Accel around the equator of the globe shaped Christmas print caused what looks like bulging lines only on one side.

[bassamanator]

I've already answered your purge related question in your own thread, see above.

[dasb00ter]

You mentioned I think previously that you typically print similar type of models. Do you often print using organic/tree supports? Do you have any advice? I have a repeated issue wherein my supports get hit. I have a bin of failed prints. I was really trying to get the issue squared away but I have failed.

Things I have tried:
Retuned belts.
Checked everything all fasteners on gantry and extruder again.
Reducing extrusion.
Re leveling bed.
Leveling gantry.
Reducing speed.
Not done anything with z hop .
I have 2 5015 fans for part cooling and one for the heat brake.

[bassamanator]

Set zhop to 0.6.

[dasb00ter]

Thanks for your prompt reply. Do you view zhop as a bandaid or a necessity? Should I be working to continue to tune the printer to get rid of the necessity of zhop. The more I print things the more I realize its almost a "developed talent" to print different types of models. An innocent looking model can be really challenging to print.

Do you feel there is some specific type of print that your really good at getting done and do you have any tips? Sometimes I wonder at the tone of this thread whether its suppose to be a coffee shop conversation about 3d printing or something else. I mostly come here when I am desperate sometimes I wish I knew more so that it would be more entertaining for the more experienced in the discussion.

[bassamanator]

Certainly not a band aide, more like a tool in your toolkit. The most expensive bambu labs printer will need to utilize zhop on occasion, it can't be helped. If you have a part with a lot of overhang, for example, and you're printing fast, the plastic will curl upwards, meaning the nozzle will collide with lower layers, layers that should technically be out of the way, it can't be helped; zhop to the rescue.

Prints that don't require support are easiest of course. Can't say I have any tips besides using good slicer settings, and making sure your printer is well tuned, see the initial steps on the everything sv06 repo for that. Also helps to realize that there are problems out there, and there are solutions to those problems, it's simply a matter of finding the solutions.

coffee shop conversation about 3d printing

Great analogy!

[dasb00ter]

Thanks for the zhop advice. It mmediately helped and saved me from another print failure and tossing another failed print on the plastic grave yard. To be honest I was experimenting with various orientations also. I'll review what your said a little more carefully. Just watched to say thanks