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dodecahedron-switch

Sort of a (probably more expensive) (less good) DIY version of the nanoleaf remote

Setting HomeKit Scenes Charging
turning on turning off Charging

BOM

Part Link
Adafruit HUZZAH32 (MK 1) https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-huzzah32-esp32-feather-board-ada3405?variant=12364065701950
TinyPICO (MK 1) https://thepihut.com/products/tinypico-esp32-development-board
Fast Vibration Sensor Switch https://thepihut.com/products/fast-vibration-sensor-switch-easy-to-trigger?variant=27739606289
Adafruit LSM6DS33 + LIS3MDL - 9 DoF IMU with Accel / Gyro / Mag https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-lsm6ds33-lis3mdl-9-dof-imu-with-accel-gyro-mag?variant=31486702354494
EEMB 3.7V 1100mAh 603449 Lipo Battery https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08FD39Y5R
Yizhet 50pcs N38 Neodymium Strong Magnets https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074C79DJS
SUNLU PLA plus white https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07R8X76GW
perfboard, wires, connectors etc

Construction

  • The magnets fit into the slots within the upper & lower halves, 2 pairs of magnets should be reversed so the two halves have a prefered way of clasping together
  • Once the circuit's on the perfboard chop off some of the excess board & use the circuit_connector (and probably some hot glue) to attach it with the top of the ESP32 facing the number 2.

MK2 Improvements

  • Switched from the Adafruit HUZZAH32 (which uses 7000µA in deep sleep) to the TinyPICO (which uses ~29µA in deep sleep) which should have a noticable effect on the battery life
  • Started powering the IMU component from a GPIO pin after seeing that it used about 1.43mA max (well under the 12mA that it's safe to pull from a GPIO pin)
  • Didn't 3D print a new case / use a new proto-board so there's a bunch of extra electrical tape, hot glue and solder

Possible improvements

  • Expose as real homekit device rather than use Homebridge-mqtt, there's an ESP32 homebridge library but it looked complicated & didn't appear to work in ardiuno mode
  • Internal LEDs, I bought some planning to put them in but I couldn't be bothered with the additional power draw & complexity
  • Use a transistor to power on the gyro only when it's needed - didn't realise until I'd wired it up that the gryo / accelerometer chip has an always on LED + all the processing it's presumably doing. Could have it powered off during sleep then power on wake.
  • Wait for movement to stop before sending messages, I thought this would be a bigger deal than it seems to be, there's a CSV of readings taken while moving which could be used to train a tensorflow model to check if it's in motion.
  • Use actual math instead of a tensorflow model to tell which side is up. Less fun, but probably quicker.