Within this section a small hold for needles is built. It's placed at the front of the linear actuator and therefore can be moved towards the mouse if rewards should be provided.
Step 1: Preparation: 3D prints
Print all following parts, some need to be printed twice.
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It's recommended to print the "rotatable needle hold end" multiple times because the drilling inside is a bit tricky.
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Core components
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Step 2: Print core components
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Upper core
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Lower core
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Moveable needle hold (2x)
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Needle fixation (2x)
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Step 3: Print rotatable needle hold (2x)
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Rotatable needle hold end
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Rotatable needle hold core
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Step 4: Print needle fixation (2x)
Print settings
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Print settings
Support: Yes, automatic from PrusaSlicer
Raft: No
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After printing
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Step 5: After printing
Use sandpaper to smooth both parts of the ball joint.
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Clean the holes inside the parts from blocking print artifacts, e.g. with a small drill.
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Clean the holes inside the parts from blocking print artifacts and support structures, e.g. with a small drill.
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The "rotatable needle hold end" needs to have hole which is tight for a M2 screw. This hole is already in the STL files but gets filled with support most likely.
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Use a 1.5 mm drill to make a 5 mm deep hole, like in the STL file, and use a 2 mm drill to make the entrance larger, go like 1 mm inside. By this it's easier to insert the screw.
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Step 6: Combine the 3D prints
An overview of all combined 3D printed parts
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Use the overview as an orientation for combining.
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Combine the 3D prints
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Use the overview as an orientation.
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Do the following step twice:
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Use a M2 screw and place it trough the "rotatable needle hold core". Then turn the "rotatable needle hold end" on the thread of the M2 screw.
Before tighten the screw place both moveable needle holds with the ball inside. These should point sidewards and not to the front as shown in the file.
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Remember to loosen the screws before repositioning the moveable needle holds.
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Remember to loosen the screws before reorientating the moveable needle holds.
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The combined needle hold:
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Note
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If the holes in the 3D printed parts are slightly to large for the needles and screws you can use arcylic glue as support.
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Note
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If the movable needle hold is to unstable for your purposes, at the bottom of this page are the two ending parts of the movable needle hold which can be combined by a long M2 screw with a small head.
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An alternative way of the rotatable needle hold is at the bottom of this page. It's a STL file with both parts of the rotatable needle hold and the combining screw. It can be printed by this as one part. With this version the arms a more elastic and can break.
Append to the in one direction pointing end of the Y-hose connector another compressed air hose with the length of your need to the air pressure source.
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\ No newline at end of file
diff --git a/airtable.html b/airtable.html
index d99e05c..74aaf63 100644
--- a/airtable.html
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Now you're going to fix the air table center box with a surrounding framework, so it stands.
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Now you're going to fix the air table center box with a surrounding framework, so it stands.
Step 1: U-formation framework
We will first build two U-shaped framework which will be connected to the airtable using the holes we prepared during the predrilling stage. Accordingly the central part of the "U" should be 480 mm.
You can decide of the length of the other two elements that will become the feets of the table.
We usually use 400 mm, and if should not be less than 250 mm to get enough distance for the camera fixed below.
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Cut the aluminium strut profile into two 480 mm pieces and four pieces of equal length > 250 mm (recommended length 400 mm, see above).
Repeat the previous step with the remaining 3 struts.
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<<<<<<< Updated upstream
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TODO
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are numbers of parts correct ?
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Step 2: Fixing the U-formation framework to the central air table
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TODO
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I do not understand, add photos.
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Step 2: Fixing the U-formation framework to the central air table
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TODO
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I do not understand, add photos.
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In this set we will attach the blue marked frame to the air table box.
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Stashed changes
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Place two nuts inside each 480 mm rod of the U-formation frameworks on one side which adjacent to the side with nuts already placed in (90 degrees to both rods which can vary in length), both sides work.
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Step 4: Attach a second frame circle
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Step 3: Attach a second frame circle
To guarantee a higher stability it's recommended to place a second framework circle 5-10cm above the ground. The second framework circle is shown in the picture below.
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<<<<<<< Updated upstream
-- Therefore cut the aluminium strut profile in two pieces with a length of 440 mm and three with a length of 326 mm.
After connecting the air table with the framework there is no need in accessing the inner box.
Again it's necessary to degrease and remove any dirt at the glueing surface before glueing.
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Glue the second 480mm x 326mm plexiglass plate on the bottom side of the already build. Line up the long side of the box with the long side of the plate, there must be no hole for air flowing through.
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Glue the second 480mm x 326mm plexiglass plate on the bottom side of the already build.
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TODO
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I do not understand, add photos.
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Step 5: Glue bottom plate
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The bottom plate is meant to disconnect first if the pressure in the box gets too high. Therefore the bottom plate is not screwed.
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Line up the long side of the box with the long side of the plate, there must be no hole for air flowing through.
always put reference for each part, not using made up names. Use the one created in the previous part of the doc.
-This needs pictures or schematics or video (and?)
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first glue or screw?
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The first step is to build the central plexiglas box where the air is floating through.
Step 2: Inserting of hose connection gland and pressure relief valve
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These components take care of the incoming air and protect against overpressure.
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Choose one short side of the box and drill in the center of the the plexiglass a hole with a G 1/4" thread drill.
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TODO
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put this step as a predrilling step.
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Step 2: Glueing
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The next step is to glue the central plexiglas box where the air is floating through. Try to keep the predrilled holes free of glue. It's recommended to place the glue on the 8 mm wide sides of the plexiglass.
Take the Pixy Camera to mark on the other long side two more drill places with the distance of both holes from the fixation part of the Pixy Camera. The distance should be around 7 mm.
The table is mounted on aluminium legs to reach the desired height and space for the camera.
On the framework is a lot space to place e.g. further tracking devices.
The computational tasks are performed with a Arduino Uno microcontroller.
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Disclaimer: Construction complexity
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Some parts are more difficult to construct than others. Mainly the central plexiglass box is difficult to build with a improvised work place. Precise cutting of the plexiglass is needed to ensure airtight manufacturing. If you have access to a workshop, we recommend you to get the air table constructed there. In general it's better to have large parts of the Airtrack manufactured professionally.
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Size and stunts
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The amount of stunts you will need depends on the hight of the table, and how well you can cut the 2 m stunts into pieces. For the default table (height = 400 mm
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Disclaimer: Construction complexity
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Some parts are more difficult to construct than others. Mainly the central plexiglass box is difficult to build with an improvised work place. Precise cutting of the plexiglass is needed to ensure airtight manufacturing. Further, a workshop might use UV glue for the box which provides a good quality.
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If you have access to a workshop, we recommend you to get the air table constructed there. In general it's better to have large fraction of the Airtrack manufactured professionally.
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Size and struts
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The amount of strut profiles you need depends on the hight of the table, and how well you can cut the 2 m strut profiles into pieces. For the default table (height = 400 mm) it takes 6m (= 3 pieces).
Keep a distance of 45 mm to the short edge and 1 cm to the top. You can choose which side it at the top for you but you need to keep this orientation.
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Keep a distance of 4.5 cm to the end edge and 1 cm to the top.
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Drill two more holes inside both 480mm x 64mm plexiglass plates at the same height with a distance of 130 mm from the short edge towards the plate's center.
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