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Battery optimization guide #596
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All this is pointless for CR2032.
Buy a thermometer with 2xAAA or CR2450. This will increase the battery life several times. Next, there is a dependence on the type of elements installed in a specific thermometer model. The thermometer with display MJWSD05MMC has the longest battery life. CGG1 the first release also works quite a long time. There is a CR2430 battery. This is only for a model released a long time ago and having a capacitor soldered into the power supply by the manufacturer. Next come thermometers without a display. Almost all of them have 2xAAA or CR2450. The battery life in them with optimized settings is more than 2 years. Xiaomi LYWSD03MMC is not the best option. Only Tuya like TH05 is worse. On thermometers with cheap CR2032 the maximum service life is from 8 months to a little more than a year. It depends little on the settings, except for disabling the display for some models. Where the display chip allows for almost complete disabling. For the average CR2032 to last 2 years, it needs to transmit data no more than once every 30 minutes. This is inconsistent with BLE and thermometers with displays. And such devices require a button to be able to connect and do other settings. But there are no buttons on most thermometers. |
Hm, now I'm a bit surprised. I have 8 LYWSD03MMC, 3x HW2.0 and 5x HW1.5 Sensor in "low power mode" Was I extremely lucky with the CR2032? I would be surprised though, as all 3 HW2.0 devices lasted so long. |
Of the available HW B2.0, not a single one worked more than 1.5 years on one battery. On cheap CR2032 even less. |
Are the HW2.0s also different in terms of power consumption? I thought “only” the HWx.x would differ from each other. EDIT: |
On HW B2.0, turning off the display can increase the battery life several times. |
I can't know that. Because I can't buy all the thermometers - Then you won't have a thermometer :)
README ->
Version 1.7 or 2.0 is determined at first run by reading the HW line written in Flash. |
Yes, I know. I asked about the differences a long time ago and remembered them. :) My 2.0 also has 2.0 on the PCB. I must have simply misunderstood you here. Sounded to me like it also depends on your luck with HW2.0 devices. At least my HW2.0s last a very, very long time. I hope my HW1.5 devices (despite UART) last at least 1-1.5 years. I will find out. If not, I may solder in the capacitor and/or convert to 2x AAA. |
The kit includes different CR2032. And they have different expiration dates before sale. |
It is interesting that some CR2032 have such problems with it. I thought lithium-manganese cells had no problems with this. :-/ Have a nice day :) |
Hello,
[@pvvx thank you very much for your work on this firmware!]
[There are threads on this, like https://github.com//issues/204 but could not find a guide]
I'm looking to reduce the power consumption to delay the replacement of batteries as much as possible.
I'm using ESP32-C3 and ESP32-C6 BLE proxies to Home Assistant - I can't use HA connected USB BLE 5.X Dongles because of the way my layout is.
Here is what I did:
I used the Android app @pvvx recommended, nRF Connect and I see that all devices appear as:
Device Type: LE only <- I think this is good, right?
Advertising type: Legacy <- This relates to the advertising which is done BT 4.x way on 3 channels instead of BT 5.x way? If yes, would there be a win if it is done BT 5.x way?
Flags: LE General Discoverable, BR/EDR Not Supported
Any other recommendations on tuning I could do to lower the power consumption?
Does setting a smaller device name make a difference?
On ESP32 side, I'm not interested in "best WiFi" performance, I would favor BLE scanning. Any suggestions on how to do this?
Snippet from ESPHome config
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