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I'm trying to use the controller with a Fully Jarvis EcoTop Standing Desk (SKU
I am using the controller you assembled (i.e., I haven't built my own). Home Assistant version: 2022.6.6 My primary ESPHome config is a mix of your packages and one that all of my ESPHome devices share: ---
packages:
desk_config: >-
github://tjhorner/esphome-standing-desk/configs/desks/fully_jarvis.yaml
device_base: !include common/device_base.yaml
standing_desk: github://tjhorner/esphome-standing-desk/configs/template.yaml
substitutions:
device_name: fully-jarvis-desk-controller
device_friendly_name: Fully Jarvis Desk Controller
device_static_ip: 172.16.20.222
esphome:
board: d1_mini
platform: ESP8266
---
api:
encryption:
key: !secret api_encryption_key
password: !secret api_password
binary_sensor:
- name: ${device_friendly_name} Status
platform: status
button:
- platform: restart
name: ${device_friendly_name} Restart
esphome:
name: ${device_name}
logger: null
ota: null
text_sensor:
- lambda: |-
auto state = id(esphome_version).state;
return state.substr(0, state.find(' '));
name: "${device_friendly_name}: ESPHome Version (Short)"
platform: template
- id: esphome_version
name: "${device_friendly_name}: ESPHome Version"
platform: version
wifi:
manual_ip:
gateway: 172.16.20.1
static_ip: ${device_static_ip}
subnet: 255.255.255.0
ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
password: !secret wifi_passwordWhen I flash the controller manually (i.e., with it connected to my laptop via micro USB), the device shows up in Home Assistant (without being able to see height values, as expected). Here are the logs from that initial, plugged-in flash: When I install the controller – 1 RJ45 from the handset to the controller, 1 RJ45 from the control box to the controller – my desk immediately goes to the fully lowered position. However, it never comes online:
I don't see the device in my active DHCP leases, which makes it seem like it's not connecting to wifi...but only when connected to the control box (when I connect the device to power over micro USB, it connects to wifi just fine). Any thoughts? Appreciate it! Some additional info:
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Replies: 4 comments 13 replies
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So I've seen this kind of issue before on a Jarvis desk, but notably it was using one of the more advanced keypads. There are a couple of things I'd like you to try before we do any further troubleshooting. First, could you add a status LED component to your config, using D4 as the pin, and active-low? Something like this: status_led:
pin:
number: D4
inverted: trueThis will let us know if it's powering up properly. After you've flashed it, could you try connecting the control box first (without the keypad) and see if it powers up properly? Try unplugging/replugging a few times if not. After that, try the same thing but this time plugging in the keypad first. Basically, I think what's happening is that pin D8 is being pulled high during startup by the control box, resulting in a failure to boot, since D8 is also CS. Internally, it is pulled to GND (which is also why your desk lowers) so this shouldn't happen but it seems the pulldown resistor is too resistive for some desk models (or something like that). This is something I missed during my initial tests and will be fixed in v2 of the board. The constant unplugging/replugging may eventually cause the race condition that's happening here to result in a successful boot. Edit: Just thought of another idea. Could you try plugging in the keypad first (well, I guess it's a paddle in your case), then as you plug in the control box, press the paddle in the down position? This should ground the D8 pin and result in successful boot. Something I think that might also be worth trying (but also potentially dangerous) is booting with microUSB power, then plugging into the control box. I don't have a background in electrical engineering, so I don't know if sharing the +5V line between the USB power source and the control box is a good idea or not 😅 Let me know the results! |
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Thanks for the follow-up! After I flashed firmware with the status LED enabled, the LED blinked regularly while connected to USB. I then tried all of your suggestions:
I'm not an EE either, but I found this post where several people indicate that there's a Schottky diode between VIN and the USB, preventing VIN from feeding back into the USB. All posts I've read suggest that it's safe/won't burn anything out. I'll give it a try and post back; maybe the serial logs will show something... |
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Okay, following up – I tried multiple iterations of:
In all cases, the same sequence happened:
You'll see a connection reset in the logs when the LED stopped blinking, then me resetting the D1 Mini by unplugging/replugging the USB. |
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Thanks for such a detailed report, it's really helpful!
So even plugging in only the keypad causes the issue as well? That's very weird; this might be a different issue than what I was thinking. Are you able to grab serial logs via USB when the D1 Mini is in the weird powered-but-not-connected state? I think it is normal behavior for it to stop blinking eventually—when it connects to WiFi—so there is at least hope that this is the case. Can you modify the status LED config to match this? light:
- platform: status_led
id: status
pin:
number: D4
inverted: true
restore_mode: ALWAYS_ONThis will make the status LED stay on once connected. Then try the four scenarios again, and see if it stays on after the blinking. |
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Ah, okay – if the LED as configured before goes off when wifi is connected, maybe that's not as relevant. Here are the tests with the updated, always-on LED; I get the same serial logs no matter what (I was viewing the ESPHome dashboard logs before; they're similar, but I don't think they're the same):
Same as above.
Same as above.
Same as above. In all cases, Home Assistant can now see the device:
...but there are some oddities when both the control box and keypad are connected:
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Ok, cool! So in this working state, if you unplug the USB cable, it will stop working? If that's the case then I wonder if the control box can't supply enough current for the D1 Mini to work, which means you might have to plug in USB all the time. Although I find it unlikely; the D1 Mini does not take much current. |
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Negative: if I plug the USB/keypad/control box in, then remove the USB, the controller stays working as expected. It's only when I start out with no USB that we see the issue. |
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Oh, got it. Yeah, I think this is what you will need to do going forward unfortunately. But the good news is that you will only ever need to do it if the desk loses power, which is very seldom, unless you unplug your desk often or something. I will work on a fix for this issue in v2 of the board and will ship you one for free once it's done. Tracked in #6. Will add workaround steps for this issue in the documentation as well. Thank you for reporting it, and for helping me test the various workarounds! |
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That's great! Happy to help; thanks for the collaboration. |
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One other docs suggestion in case you weren't already planning on it: for my particular Fully keypad, the |
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This issue is tracked in #6. There is documentation for a workaround here: https://github.com/tjhorner/wifi-desk-controller/wiki/Jarvis-Power-Issue |
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I am seeing similar behavior with my Uplift V2 using an Advanced Comfort Keypad. Connects to wifi fine via USB, but when connected to desk and keypad I see a blue blip but never connects to wifi. I'm a bit new to ESPHome, so haven't tried all the troubleshooting steps with a custom config to see if all behavior is the same. Do I need to do that, or do you think I should proceed with trying the workaround? |
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Try the workaround first since it's pretty easy to perform and will tell us right away whether it's the same issue or not. I have an Uplift v2 and don't experience this issue, although I have a slightly less fancy keypad (this one). I wonder if they made a revision of the control box or something. |
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I was successful connecting to USB Power, connecting the controller to desk, disconnecting USB power, and then connecting keypad. Outstanding questions are:
While understand this should only be required after power outage, still trying to make it as easy as possible. If it's safe to have all 3 connected, but I do need to remove USB power, I was considering putting the USB power on a smart plug that could power down after a successful boot and be manually turned on when required...but that doesn't save me much if I still have to go down and disconnect either or both RJ45s.
Exact markings on my control box are: "V2 Commercial" Model: FRM053-2. Surprisingly no serial number, or if there is it's on the desk mounted side. |
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It can remain connected.
According to the D1 Mini schematic, there is a diode on VBUS so it should be safe to keep the USB power connected. I haven't personally verified this over a long period of time, though.
I don't think so. You should be able to keep them connected all the time, so if power is ever lost, it will sort of automatically recover without manual intervention.
Thanks! I will cross-reference this with the markings on my control box. Notably I do not have the V2 Commercial desk, only the normal V2, so that might be the difference here |
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This issue is tracked in #6. There is documentation for a workaround here: https://github.com/tjhorner/wifi-desk-controller/wiki/Jarvis-Power-Issue