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kvvo authored Jun 27, 2024
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Chapter,Location,Start Date,End Date,Latitude,Longitude,Zoom,Marker,Marker Color,Description,Notes,Media Link,Media Credit,Media Credit Link,Overlay,Overlay Transparency,GeoJSON Overlay,GeoJSON Feature Properties
1 JULY 1874: Ft. Abraham Lincoln,Fort Abraham Lincoln,7/1/1874,7/2/1874,46.76944444,-100.8491667,11,Plain,green,"On the first of July, Custer emerged from his headquarters and issued the order to depart at 8am the next day. This “caused great rejoicing in camp,” especially among the expedition’s “civilian attaches.” Apparently, a new shipment of guns had been slow to arrive, which caused a delay lasting more than one week. To maintain morale among scientists and others who had joined the expedition “on the invitation of the commanding officer, and without pay from the Government,” Custer hosted frequent soirees at his residence in the camp.<br></br>

According to the New York World, the camp was also stirred up by an impassioned protest from Episcopal Bishop Hare and other so-called “friends of the Indians,” who accused the expedition of being in “direct defiance and violation” of the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie. Although the New York World dismissed the controversy as mere “rumors” spread by “disappointed filibusters and sensation mongers,” the newspaper nonetheless acknowledged that it would have been “graceful to notify the Indians of our intention.” Similar sentiments were voiced by Private Theodore Ewert as well, who complained that by ordering an “invasion of the Black Hills,” the United States “forgot its honor,” its “sacred treaty,” and its “integrity.”<br></br>

Around the same time, a group of Eastern Dakota (Santee) scouts joined the expedition at Fort Lincoln. According to the New York World, this occasioned a large “dance” to cement and celebrate the “alliance” among the expedition’s Native scouts, which also included a number of Arikara warriors.<br></br><a href=""https://scalar.usc.edu/works/in-and-out-of-place/custers-expedition-day1"" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",,media/1July-FtAbrahamLincoln.png,"Broken glass negative plate showing Ft. Abraham Lincoln by William H. Illingworth, a photographer that Capt. William Ludlow hired to document the expedition. In exchange for photographic supplies and free passage to the Black Hills, Illingworth agreed to provide six complete sets of stereoscopic views. When he refused to provide more than one set, Ludlow pursued the matter in court, but failed to gain a conviction.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0
2 JULY 1874: Buck Creek,Buck Creek,7/2/1874,7/3/1874,46.590278,-101.145278,11,Plain,green,"March: 8am to 8:45pm<br>
Mean Temp: 86.6F<br>
Distance Marched: 15.1 miles<br>
Camp Coordinates: 46.68055556N; 101.0522222W<br></br>At 8am sharp, the expedition left Fort Lincoln under great fanfare. Private Ewert recalled that troops were lined up in four columns with “guidons” flying in the breeze while a band played ""Garry Owen"" and officers “dashed up and down the column with an air of importance.” Anxiously chattering with one another, the troops looked back and saw the wives of officers and enlisted men waving their handkerchiefs in farwell. They let out “three hearty cheers” and began marching southwest along the banks of the Heart River. A cavalry scout named Luther North recalled being surprised by the expedition’s festive mood overall. He wrote in his diary that “this was the first and last expedition that I was ever on in an Indian country that had a band along,” adding that Custer often ordered the musicians to assemble in front of his tent after supper and play for an hour or so.<br></br>

The large column of men included ten companies of mounted cavalry, three companies of infantry soldiers, about one hundred Native scouts, and a battery of Gatlin guns followed by approximately one hundred and fifty wagons carrying supplies. As they marched over some fifteen miles of rolling prairie, a reporter for the New York World noted several trails which had been “cut deep and stamped hard” by “the extinct buffalo,” whose “bones are everywhere to be found … in little bleached piles.” In addition, the expedition naturalist George Bird Grinell found several invertebrate fossils embedded in “yellowish sandstone” on top of a “lofty bute.”<br></br>

The first day’s march lasted over twelve hours, and several soldiers passed out from heat exhaustion. According to a correspondent for the Chicago Inter-Ocean, there was also a great deal of anxiety caused by “startling rumors” about an imminent attack from Lakotan warriors who had gathered under Sitting Bull’s leadership to prevent Custer’s men from entering the Black Hills.<br></br><a href=""https://scalar.usc.edu/works/in-and-out-of-place/custers-expedition-day2"" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",Cross-referenced.,media/2July-BuckCreek.png,"Column of Cavalry, Artillery, and Wagons making up the 1874 Black Hills Expedition, photographed by William H. Illingworth.",https://catalog.archives.gov/id/519427?objectPage=2,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0
3 JULY 1874: Buck Creek,Buck Creek,7/3/1874,7/4/1874,46.590278,-101.145278,11,Plain,green,"March: 8am to 3pm</br>
Mean Temp: 90.6F</br>
Distance Marched: 14.1 miles<br>Camp Coordinates: 46.590278N; 101.145278W<br></br>July 3rd brought another difficult day’s march under the hot sun. According to the St. Paul Pioneer, the temperature reached as high as 101 degrees Fahrenheit. Intense beams of sunlight scorched the earth and made stones so hot they “literally blister the hands.” The day was made all the more strenuous by the region’s unforgiving landscape. The geologist Newton H. Winchell described a “broken country” of fairly high altitude underlain by sandstone and strewn over with “foreign boulders.” Other accounts paint a similar picture. In his diary, Private Ewert complained about the scarcity of fresh water and lack of tree cover, claiming that soldiers were “compelled” to carry firewood over a distance of more than two miles back to the camp.<br></br>

In spite of the harsh climate and difficult terrain, Custer insisted on making the military band put on a show. A correspondent for the Bismarck Tribune wondered who the intended audience of this imposing display might have been. Although “no Indians have yet been seen,” he remarked, the sight of over one thousand soldiers and several hundred horses marching in step to the music “presents a scene decidedly enlivening, and which must strike the Indian, even, with wonder and admiration.”<br></br><a href=""https://scalar.usc.edu/works/in-and-out-of-place/custers-expedition-day-2-july-2-1874"" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",Approximate.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0
4 JULY 1874: Dog's Teeth Creek,Dog's Teeth Creek,7/4/1874,7/5/1874,46.401546,-101.326638,11,Plain,green,"March: 5am to 11:30am<br>
Mean Temp: 86.8F<br>
Distance Marched: 14.7 miles<br>
Camp Coordinates: 46.401546N; 101.326638W<br></br>

The fourth of July passed without fanfare or celebration. Indeed, it was a “Fourth by no means glorious,” the New York World lamented; characterized by extreme heat, no shade, and gusts of “alkaline dust” that “made our thirst intolerable, eyes sore, and faces blistered despite veils.” With the benefit of hindsight, however, one wonders if complaints such as these may have been a self-aggrandizing ploy to sell newspapers and broadcast the masculine courage, vigor, and stamina of expedition soldiers. Indeed, Aris Donaldson from the St. Paul Pioneer described a rather different scene, stating the expedition passed through a much “better country,” which was “clothed in green by recent and heavy rains,” compared to previous days.<br></br>

Overall, then, not much of note happened that day. With one exception. Private Theodore Ewert recalled crossing a trail that was cut by Custer’s expedition to the Yellowstone River the previous year. This brought back old memories in the 7th Cavalry’s ranks and “gave the boys a topic for discussion which was kept up 'till late in the night.” How would this year’s expedition compare to the last, they wondered? “Would we meet as many, or more, Indians than last year? Would the expedition be as successful as the one of the Yellowstone? How many would return? Who of our command would remain in the Black Hills?”<br></br><a href=""https://scalar.usc.edu/works/in-and-out-of-place/custers-expedition-day4"" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",Approximate.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0
5 JULY 1874: Where Bear Winters Creek,"Creek ""where bear winters""",7/5/1874,7/5/1874,46.415874,-101.579856,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:45am to 1pm<br>
Mean Temp: 68.4F<br>
Distance Marched: 16.9 miles<br>
Camp Coordinates: 46.415874N; 101.579856W<br></br>
If the previous day had been uneventful, the fifth of July was even more tedious and routine. The only excitement consisted of two unfortunate accidents. First, there was a teamster who fell from his seat and broke both of his legs when the wheels of his wagon passed over them. Second, a rattlesnake bit a horse at its fetlock joint just above the hoof. The poor animal began dripping with sweat almost immediately and trembled so much that it nearly fell to the ground. Had it not been for the quick intervention of a veterinary doctor, the horse would have almost certainly died.<br></br>

While it may have been lacking excitement, the day was pleasant for everyone else. According to the St. Paul Pioneer, the expedition passed through as “rich and well-grassed prairie as the very best in any of the States.” Survey geologist Newton Winchell agreed, describing the “country passed through” as “the finest yet seen.” In addition to featuring “a few oaks, and good grass,” it also had “a flowing stream of clear water” that an Arikara scout named Goose called “Where the Bear Stays in Winter.”<br></br><a href=""https://scalar.usc.edu/works/in-and-out-of-place/index"" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",Approximate.,media/5July-WhereBearWinterCreek,"Portrait of the Arikara Scout, Goose, taken by David Barry in 1886.",,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0
6 JULY 1874: Cannon Ball River,Cannon Ball River,7/6/1874,7/6/1874,46.33111111,-101.7952778,11,Plain,green,"March: 4:50am to 10am<br>
Mean Temp: 78.4F<br>
Distance Marched: 12.9 miles<br>
Camp Coordinates: 46.3311111N; 101.7952778W<br></br>As they had for the past several days, expedition members arose in the predawn to escape from the heat and complete the day’s march before noon. Several made note of the fine country through which they passed, which was covered by “good grass” and irrigated by several small rivers and streams. It was so fertile that Private Ewert felt certain it “will undoubtedly be settled in course of time.”<br></br>

In addition to fertile land and abundant game, several members of the expedition recorded chance encounters with the region’s Native inhabitants. Private Ewert, for example, claimed to have met “a party of Sioux Indians.” Despite being “eager” in “their protestations of peace,” Ewert refused to believe they were just hunting. Instead, he felt convinced the small party had been “posted here as a ‘corps of observation’ on the movements of our expedition.” But “as orders had been issued for us to act simply on the defensive, we did not disturb them.”<br></br>

Writing in the St. Paul Pioneer, Donaldson claimed to have seen a white prayer flag atop a bluff in the distance. When a scout was dispatched to investigate, he returned with a square yard of calico fastened along a cross piece atop a large pole. A plug of tobacco was suspended on either side of the perpendicular cross, which Donaldson interpreted as “an offering to some deity, made doubtless, to secure protection of some kind, and most likely from this expedition.”<br></br>

Although Winchell, the expedition geologist, recorded a “total absence of fossils,” he did mention that large fragments of petrified wood were scattered across the prairie near Cannon Ball River (whose name derives from the perfectly round boulders strewn along either side of its banks). Besides its “large size,” Donaldson praised the “rare beauty and value” of the region’s petrified wood, explaining that choice specimens “weigh at least one thousand pounds.” Upon examination, Winchell “expressed the belief” that a single fossil might be worth hundreds of dollars to a well-endowed museum.<br></br>

More exciting still, an antelope sighting caused expedition soldiers to begin firing with wanton abandon. As Donaldson wrote in the St. Paul Pioneer, “a great deal of wild shooting was done and a great deal of Uncle Sam's ammunition was wasted.” When soldiers in charge of a Gatlin gun abandoned their post, their horses spooked and took off for the prairie, accidentally causing the large-caliber guns to discharge in every direction at great risk to the entire company. As punishment, several cavalry soldiers were forced to continue marching on foot, and Custer issued an order that forbade anyone from firing their gun within five hundred yards of the company’s flank.<br></br>

Finally, several newspaper journalists reported widespread anxiety about the prospect of reaching Slim Butte in the coming days. According to the Chicago Inter-Ocean, local “Indians tell of beautiful scenery, remarkable caves, and rare minerals there.” The expedition's Arikara scout – Goose – explained that Native people especially revered a cave which could only be entered through a hole in the ground. Inside, there were evil spirits and it was “continually filled with the shrieks and wailings of the tormented damned.” On its walls, Goose continued, “are carved great inscriptions in some unknown language, in letters as long as his arm, which even the medicine men of the Sioux have been unable to interpret.”<br></br><a href=""https://scalar.usc.edu/works/in-and-out-of-place/custers-expedition-day6"" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",Cross-referenced.,media/6July-CannonBallRiver,Stereoscopic view of Cannon Ball River by William H. Illingworth.,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0
7 JULY 1874: Cedar Creek,Cedar Creek,7/7/1874,7/7/1874,46.05555556,-102.1019444,11,Plain,green,"March: 4am to 10pm<br>
Mean Temp: 77.1F<br>
Distance Marched: 30.4 miles<br>
Camp Coordinates: 46.05555556N; 102.1019444W<br></br

Expedition members awoke at three and marched from four o’clock in the morning until ten o’clock at night on July 7th. Conditions were made even more difficult by the heat, as well as the lack of good drinking water. Apparently, the day’s march lasted so long – about eighteen hours in total, covering some thirty miles – because that was how far it took to find a suitable campsite with fresh water. As Donaldson complained in the St. Paul Pioneer, it did not help matters that “someone’s blunder” caused the entire train to be misled by one mile, forcing everyone to double back and “countermarch that distance over bad road.” The only excitement came in the form of abundant antelope, as well as a number of “Indian trails” that Private Ewert judged to have “been made during the past few days.” Although “no danger is anticipated,” several Native scouts were dispatched to reconnoiter the situation and ascertain whether the expedition was under surveillance.<br></br><a href="""" target=""_blank"">Learn more.</a>",Cross-referenced.,,,,https://cawm.lib.uiowa.edu/tiles/{z}/{x}/{y}.png,0.9,geojson/1868fltcombinedland.geojson,weight:2;color:gray;opacity:.6;fillColor:white;fillOpacity:0

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