N/A: reviewed mounting manual

README.md

@@ -4,7 +4,7 @@
 [![CI pipeline list](https://github.com/Supermanuu/BatterySwitcher/actions/workflows/release.yml/badge.svg?branch=main)](https://github.com/Supermanuu/BatterySwitcher/actions/workflows/release.yml)
 [![link to latest version](https://img.shields.io/badge/version-latest-blue)](https://github.com/Supermanuu/BatterySwitcher/releases/latest)
 
-We are triying to make a battery switch for the Sofle Keyboard, or properly said, the [nRFMicro](https://github.com/joric/nrfmicro/tree/1.4) board used by the [Sofle](https://github.com/josefadamcik/SofleKeyboard) Keyboard.
+We are triying to make a battery switch for the Sofle Keyboard, or properly said, the [nRFMicro](https://github.com/joric/nrfmicro/tree/1.4) or Pro Micro compatible board used by the [Sofle](https://github.com/josefadamcik/SofleKeyboard) Keyboard.
 
 Our goal is to have a PCB that could short and open the baterry supply via a switch, keeping as low profile as possible and doing it as integrated as possible. Also, the device should change the battery in any of the positions, because the `nRFMicro` has a battery charge monitor.
 

doc/mounting/battery-connector.md

@@ -1,12 +1,26 @@
 
 # Other components
 
-This build needs a battery connector only if you have soldered the J1 connector only.
+This build needs a battery connector only if you have soldered the optional J1 connector only.
 
 The materials that you  will need apart of  the BOM are described [here](../out-of-bom.md).
 
-To mount the battery connector you should cut the wires at the appropiate length and crimp a cable terminator.
+To mount the battery connector you should cut the wires at the appropiate length and crimp a cable terminator. First crimp the black cable:
 
-Then you should insert the terminators into the connector housing. Finally you have your battery connector ready!
+![Black crimped](img/crimped-black.jpg)
 
-To finish the mounting follow [final step](bending.md).
+Then you should insert the terminator into the connector housing:
+
+![Black emplaced](img/emplaced-black.jpg)
+
+Now do it with the red wire:
+
+![Red crimped](img/red-crimped.jpg)
+
+And add it to the connector:
+
+![Finished connector](img/finished-connector.jpg)
+
+Finally you have your battery connector ready!
+
+You can continue with the [PCB](./pcb.md).

doc/mounting/pcb.md

@@ -1,13 +1,80 @@
 
 # Mounting the PCB
 
-1. Solder the D1 component. Place the PCB on the bottom view and solder the diode paths with caution.
-2. Solder the J1 component (optional). From the bottom view, solder the connector. Use tape for secure and effective placement.
-3. Solder the S1 component. Just solder the three pins using tape.
-4. Solder the J2 and J3 components. Place the PCB from the top view, place the headers and use more tape.
+Get the PCB and the D1:
 
-At the end you have your PCB ready!
+![D1](img/next-D1.jpg)
 
-Follow the [battery connector](battery-connector.md) section if you have soldered the battery connector and you havent done yet.
+Solder the D1 component. Place the PCB on the bottom view and solder the diode paths with caution. Check the diode polarity:
 
-To finish the mounting follow [final step](bending.md).
+![Soldered D1](img/soldered-D1.jpg)
+
+Get the J1 component (optional):
+
+![J1](img/next-J1.jpg)
+
+Solder the J1 component (optional). From the bottom view, solder the connector. Use tape for secure and effective placement. Place the connetor fixing plate inwards:
+
+![Soldered J1](img/soldered-J1.jpg)
+
+Get the S1 component:
+
+![S1](img/next-S1.jpg)
+
+Solder the S1 component. Just solder the three pins using tape.
+
+![Soldered S1](img/soldered-S1.jpg)
+
+At this point, perform some excess trimming to avoid future problems:
+
+![Trim some excess](img/first-cleanup.jpg)
+
+Follow the [battery connector](battery-connector.md) section if you have soldered the battery connector.
+
+At this point you need to bend the PCB headers in a right angle. Split the headers and remove the retainer:
+
+![Splitted headers](img/splitted-headers.jpg)
+
+Then do a 90 degree bend:
+
+![First 90 degree angle](img/first-bend.jpg)
+
+Then perform a 30 degree angle and another -30 degree angle:
+
+TODO: add image
+
+**IMPORTANT: If you want to avoid rising the switch from the keyboard base, you should not perform only 90 degree angles, try to use the minimum slope in 2nd and 3th bends. Avoid the following shape:**
+
+![Wrong bending](img/wrong-bended-headers.jpg)
+
+That will be the ending shape. You will need two of the previous bended headers to be soldered into J2 and J3. First solder J2:
+
+![Soldered J2](img/soldered-one-header.jpg)
+
+Then solder J3. It will be better to solder it with the tob view at the top:
+
+![Soldered J3](img/soldered-headers.jpg)
+![Soldered J3 back view](img/soldered-headers-back.jpg)
+
+Trim again the excess material:
+
+![Second trimming](img/cleaned-headers.jpg)
+
+At this point you can solder it to the Pro Micro or compatible board:
+
+![Soldered in CPU](img/soldered-in-cpu.jpg)
+![Soldered in CPU side](img/soldered-in-cpu-side.jpg)
+
+**IMPORTANT: Try to avoid to move the headers when are soldered because you can break a header, as it happened to me:**
+
+![Broken header](img/broke.jpg)
+
+Remove again the excess and start mounting altogheder!
+
+1. Connect the battery connector
+2. Connect the Pro Micro compatible CPU to the keyboard
+3. Connect the OLED displayy, if you have it.
+
+![Finished](img/finished.jpg)
+
+Done!