I don't want to recompile + reupload to test every change I want to make, therefore I chose to use Klipper for my firmware.
Klipper has very active development, a ton of cool features that are missing in Marlin and is in general a lot more easy/quick to work with.
Price: Depends on the version of Raspberry Pi you get
Price/Performance: 5/5
Price/Niceness factor: 5/5
Put in a new motherboard with silent steppers, a couple of 120mm fans for the electronics cooling, a 4020 silent fan on the hotend and a better 5015 fan for the parts cooling and you will have a really quiet machine.
Price: Around 80 EUR
Price/Performance: 0/5
Price/Niceness factor: 5/5
I first ofted for a fancy 4020 24v Sunon fan(MF40202V21000UA99) for the hotend cooling, but it was a bit noise so I decided to try a 4020 12v Noctua(NF-A4x20 FLX) that drastically reduced the noise and I have yet to experience any heat creap and clogged hotends. For parts cooling I opted for a Sunon MF50151V1-A99.
For the 120mm fans I just bought a 3 pack of silent fans for 15 eur and they are plenty silent and provide much better cooling than the stock fan for the electronics case.
I used this case lid to make room for the 120mm fans and this hotend adapter to make room for the bigger fans.
Stiffen up the frame, it will do you good. But the real star of the show is Klippers Input Shaper.
Here are two test cubes. Both printed using Das Filament PETG, 0.3mm layer height, stupid fast 150mm/s across the board (external perimeters, infill, solid layers etc.) and 7000 mm/s^2 max_accel. The left after frame stiffening, and the right after frame stiffening + input shaper.
I measured the resonance for X and Y with the help of Klippers auto-tune input shaper and a ADXL345 accelerometer.
Then I mounted the following parts on the frame
And ran the same tests again
The peak at 29hz went from 627500 to 530700, a ~17% reduction.
The peak at 27hz went from 211700 to 156200, a ~30% reduction.
1. Princore plate range: TODO
2. Sovol plate and Sovol glass flat side up range: 0.25 mm
4. Sovol plate and Sovol glass bumpy side up range: 0.34 mm
5. Sovol plate and spring steel range: 0.36 mm
- If you dont want anything fancy the stock glass bed is plenty good.
- If you want a magnetic spring steel surface, you need a better(machined) build plate.
- If you need to print with high bed temperatures, you need a better(machined) build plate.
Price: 115 eur
Price/Performance: 0/5 (If you do not need heated bed and/or spring steel)
Price/Performance: 5/5 (If you need heated bed and/or spring steel)
Price/Niceness factor: 3/5
When heating up the build plate it will warp. Compare these two measurments with stock build plate + magnetic base kit at room temperature(20c) and allowing the heated bed sit at 65 degrees for 10 mins before taking the second test.
This does not happen with the milled build plate from Princore.
Between every test case the following was done
-
Level all bed screws with SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE until there was at maximum 0.01 mm difference between the highest and lowest point above the leveling screws.
-
Run a 9x9 BED_MESH_CALIBRATE without any fancy interpolation between the points. All tests with the bed at room temperature.
[bed_mesh]
speed: 150
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 5,5
mesh_max: 275,240
algorithm: bicubic
mesh_pps: 0
min: -0.185000 mm
max: 0.062500 mm
range: 0.25 mm
min: -0.272500
max: 0.072500
range: 0.34 mm
min: -0.230000 mm
max: 0.130000 mm
range: 0.36 mm
Linear rail + BMG + Dragon == <3
